British designer Patrick McDowell has unveiled a collaboration with pioneering colour technology firm Sparxell, bringing the world’s first bioinspired structural colour to the fashion industry. The partnership sees Mr McDowell become the first designer to incorporate Sparxell’s plant-based pigments and biodegradable embellishments into both couture and commercial garments.
The collaboration will debut at Future Fabrics Expo 2025, with a couture gown and a ready-to-wear shirt dress showcasing the sustainable technology. Sparxell’s cellulose-based pigments, developed by scientists from the University of Cambridge, are free from plastic and toxic chemicals, offering vibrant colour and shimmer effects derived from structural colour principles found in nature, says the company.
“This is about making sustainability tangible,” said Mr McDowell. “One piece shows what’s possible at the highest level of craft, the other makes that possibility part of everyday life.”
McDowell’s couture gown features two shades of Sparxell’s structural blue – one matte and one with a light-catching shimmer effect – without the use of synthetic sparkles or mined minerals. A bag in the collection also uses a Sparxell-infused coating developed with material innovator Nuvi. These are the first commercial shades released by Sparxell, with more colour options available for brands exploring low-impact alternatives.
“What excites me about Sparxell is how they’re advancing what’s possible in responsible luxury,” Mr McDowell added. “Their plastic-free sequins and vibrant plant-based pigments open up entirely new creative possibilities.”
Sparxell’s biodegradable technology eliminates the need for fossil-derived finishes, enabling the creation of vivid, durable colours with minimal environmental impact. The company is already working with brands across the automotive, fashion and cosmetics sectors.
The partnership underlines McDowell’s continued focus on circular design and material innovation. Known for his made-to-order, low-impact collections, McDowell has been a vocal advocate for industry transformation, speaking at the United Nations and receiving the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design in 2025.